Oh My-llorca!
I moved to Spain 8 years ago this month-- how time has flown! And over the years, many things seem to have changed here, or maybe I’ve changed and those parts of Spain were always really there, waiting to be appreciated. In fact, that’s one of the reasons I’m so drawn to Spain; I feel that I’ve grown into it, and it’s provided all the different layers, all the cracks and crevices, for 22-year-old me to turn into 25-year-old me and now, 30-year-old me. Long nights in Madrid’s famous nightlife have slowly turned into slightly shorter nights in what my friends and I fondly call “old man bars,” spots that look like they haven’t had a good clean for a few decades and have a curmudgeonly viejo manning the bar. My favorite plazas, brimming with tourists, have slowly been replaced in my lineup with quiet corners that it feels like only I know about. I’ve changed, and Spain has had an answer for every change.
Madrid Palace, 2013
Mallorca is much the same-- my first visit was March of 2014, and our goal was a pretty straightforward one for 22-year-old spring break travelers: beach and nightlife. Mallorca famously passes this test with flying colors, attracting tourists from all over the UK and northern Europe, desperate to flee the cold winters of their home countries. But when I started planning my return to Mallorca this summer-- 7 years after my first visit, and with an earlier bedtime-- I knew I wanted something totally different, and I wasn’t totally confident I would find it.
Well, I was wrong (and I don’t say that often). Mallorca is teeming with fresh and inventive travel ideas, from new designer hotels to an elevated take on Mediterranean island cuisine, and, most importantly, a focused emphasis on sustainability. If this Mallorcan itinerary inspires you to start planning your next trip, get in touch-- and remember that Duende Travels clients are often treated to extra perks at hotels like upgrades, spa or dining credits, free wifi, or early check-in and late check-out.
Sóller, 2021
Day 1 - Pueblo Life
We touched down in Palma de Mallorca early in the morning, grabbed our rental car, and hit the road. I highly suggest renting a car if you’ll be visiting Mallorca, whether it’s the first time or the tenth time-- it’s a relatively small island, and having a car will make it easier to explore all the cool things the island has to offer without being too much of a hassle. As the towns and cities are relatively small, and the roads aren’t mega-highways, you’ll find that driving from place to place is actually pretty enjoyable! (Full disclosure: as I’m a resident of Spain, I’m not allowed to drive in Spain like a tourist would be able to-- my boyfriend is forced to be my chauffeur on all of our road trips. But he said it was a fun place to drive!)
We headed first to visit some of the towns on the west coast of Mallorca-- an absolute don’t-miss if you’re visiting. Though there are plenty of charming towns to choose from, there are a few that stand out among the rest. Sóller lies about 35 minutes away from the airport by car, and is one of Mallorca’s most popular pueblos. Sóller is not to be confused with the ritzy port town of Port de Sóller (we learned this in 2014 by trying to walk to the latter, only to find ourselves wandering aimlessly through citrus groves for about two hours)-- though in Port de Sóller you can find some of Mallorca’s highest end hotels and resorts, if that’s your style! Meanwhile, in Sóller itself, you’ll find tranquil Plaza de la Constitución, lined with trees and, on Sundays, charming market stalls selling lots of citrus- and olive-based products. We popped into Forn del Santo Cristo for a Mallorcan breakfast, where we tried some local specialties like empanadas with caramelized onions and sobrasada (a kind of spreadable chorizo common in Mallorca) and ensaimada, a sweet yeast pastry with all types of different fillings. These come in distinctive octagonal boxes that you’ll find being stuffed into airplane overhead compartments if you’re ever flying from the peninsula to the islands… people love their ensaimada!
Next, we drove on to Deià, a hilltop village famous for attracting many of the world’s best artists, poets, and musicians. Driving into Deià, it was immediately obvious why so many creative souls found the town to be their match made in heaven. Olive trees tumble down the hillside, leading straight into the glittering Mediterranean below, and the winding roads add to the romance of the setting. This fairytale picture is where you’ll find Belmond’s La Residencia, a storied property famous for its tranquility and privacy, tucked away from crowds of tourists or beach partiers.
If you’re familiar with Belmond properties, then you have probably already scrolled longingly through La Residencia’s social media-- and let me tell you, it is every bit as gorgeous as it looks in the pictures. In addition to the stunning landscapes and the creative spirit of the area, foodies will be thrilled with the emphasis on local and sustainable food at the hotel. Olive trees are a familiar sight as you wander around the hillside property, and we even got to take a peek at the very old olive press that was used to make olive oil once upon a time.
As a travel advisor, one of the things that stood out to me was the quiet calmness that hung over the whole property-- only birds, bees, and the occasional cheerful “Buenos días!” as we passed by an employee-- although the hotel was fully booked. And peak serenity? Chilling on the terrace of the Miró, enjoying mountain views and one of their signature cocktails. As one of Belmond’s Bellini Club advisors, my clients here receive an upgrade if it’s available at check-in, free wifi, daily breakfast, and early check-in or late check-out!
It was hard to tear ourselves away from the tranquility of La Residencia, but we wanted to dig into our first big meal of the trip. We enjoyed the terrace at Restaurante Xelini, where we enjoyed the views, the gorgeous weather, as well as some Spanish staples like pimientos de padrón, patatas bravas, and gambas al ajillo (blistered green peppers, potatoes with a “spicy” tomato sauce, and sizzling garlic shrimp), as well as some Mallorcan wine.
We hit the road again, ready to get checked-in at our first accommodations in Mallorca. Travelers visiting the island will find that Mallorca isn’t short on any type of accommodations, from smaller boutique hotels to sprawling luxury estates and everything in between. And while beachside spots may be the most obvious choice while visiting the Mediterranean island, our first hotel was a slightly different pick-- pushing turismo interior (interior island tourism), instead of just the coastline. We were not disappointed! For travelers looking for something smaller and cozier, Son Sant Jordi in Pollença is a charming choice. Located in the interior of the northern part of the island, the hotel is a family-run spot that manages to maintain a cozy, home-style atmosphere while still offering stylish rooms and a lovely garden and pool for guest use only. Throw in the very friendly parrots, and you’ve won me over completely!
Son Sant Jordi, 2021 (Nahem Seguias)
Now, frequent travelers will know what I mean when I say that you almost never get straight As on any one day of a trip-- it’s rare to have gorgeous weather, fantastic hotels, and amazing food. So, going into our last meal of the day, I was skeptical. We had lucked into an opening at Brut, a tasting menu-only restaurant recommended by a friend, located in a town called Llubí, population 1,800. As we drove through literal cornfields to arrive, I tried to imagine what we’d be tasting and experiencing-- and my imagination didn’t come close to doing it justice!
One of my typical doubts about places that offer tasting menus is that the experience is often so far removed from the very normal, human experience of enjoying eating; there’s too much focus on how “fancy” something is, rather than how good the food is. At Brut, they completely turn this on its head-- as the chef places your next course in front of you, he’ll tell you: “Just pick it up with your fingers and get it all in one bite if you want.” All pretense and formality of a normal tasting menu dinner was gone-- we were there to taste new tastes, learn about some of the ancient crops produced on the island, and have fun eating. Against all odds, we achieved that rare 10/10 travel day!
Day 2 - Vamos a la Playa
Ok, I know I said this trip was to discover the “other” side of Mallorca, but I’m not going to go to an island without going to the beach, obviously! Day two was all about catching some rays and splashing around in the sea. As we were staying in Pollença in the north, we decided to visit some of Mallorca’s northern beaches and calas (rocky coves on the coast). Our first stop was Platja de Muro, where we enjoyed calm waters and fresh coconut, pineapple, and cherries on the beach. This one is a perfect pick if you’re looking for a spot with lots of action-- there are chiringuitos (beachside bars with casual food) and the town nearby.
After a quick beachside lunch, we made our way to Platja de Formentor, a smaller spot with calmer water for snorkeling-- you will have to pay for parking at this one. This beach is more secluded and lined with trees and rocks, and is a calmer option than Platja de Muro.
Now, if I have to admit one point of failure in my planning of this trip, it would be not building in enough time to enjoy the town of Pollença itself. Luckily, we did have a late afternoon and evening to wander the streets of this ancient town. The walls and cobbled streets piece together a timeline of Roman and Arab occupation as well as the effects of Catalan culture on the area. I highly recommend at least a coffee or glass of wine in the Plaça Mayor to soak in the vibes!
Platja de Muro, 2021
Day 3 - Olive You, Mallorca!
Couldn’t miss an opportunity for an olive pun.
Day three of our whirlwind Mallorca road trip was the one I’d been waiting for: olive day. We were going to visit Son Moragues, an olive estate in another of Mallorca’s most picturesque towns, Valldemossa. We enjoyed a mountain hike with Nadal, a native of the town and Son Moragues’ hiking guide extraordinaire. As we headed up the mountain, he taught us about the olive groves as well as other points of interest along the path, including old outdoors firepits where charcoal was made.
One of my founding principles when I created Duende Travels was to connect my travelers with local storytellers, people who can really teach you about where they come from; so meeting Nadal and having such a fun time hearing about what it’s like to work on the olive estate and help conserve the environment which their products come from was such a meaningful experience. Our hike finished at the Mirador de Ses Puntes, a breathtaking lookout point that had been lovingly restored by Nadal and others from Son Moragues themselves. And in his hiking backpack was a picnic fit for royalty, with some of the estate’s products as well as some other local products from the town itself-- and when I say fit for royalty… I couldn’t believe what this man was able to pull out of that backpack! It was like watching Mary Poppins at work, only instead of medicine and umbrellas, we enjoyed olive oil, wine, fresh bread and savory pastries, fruit and olive jams, sobrasada… the list goes on.
After our life-altering olive experience, we headed back south to Palma, the last stop of our getaway. For our last hotel, we wanted to check out something different than our previous two stops, so we opted for the trendy Nakar Hotel. Nakar is most known for its now-famous rooftop pool that offers sweeping views of Palma’s skyline, including its cathedral and the sea. The hotel also has a strong focus as a spa hotel, so expect fluffy robes and a spa on the below-ground floor with treatment rooms, a Finnish sauna, and a heated pool.
Nakar Hotel, 2021
Palma itself has plenty to do, and we made sure to have our last fill of rice and a couple of local beers before enjoying the tranquility of Nakar and getting ready to head back to Madrid in the morning. It was a quick trip, but a definitive answer to my questions about Mallorca. For any traveler looking to visit somewhere new and different in Spain, I can wholeheartedly recommend spending at least a few days experiencing this culturally rich Mediterranean gem— and remember to get in touch if you need help planning your next trip (to Mallorca or anywhere else)!